CRITIC'S REVIEW

NEW YORK DAILY NEWS 

CRITICS' CHOICE
Eats
by Ed Levine
I wasn't really hungry the first time I walked past Varsano's.In fact, I was stuffed after eating a fabulous plate of grilled sausages at the remarkably good (and cheap) Italian restaurant Po. But somehow, no matter how full I am, when I see a sign advertising chocolates hand-dipped daily, I have to check them out.

I walked up the stairs and stared at a case filled with lovely chocolates. I asked the salesperson, who turned out to be the owner, Marc Varsano, what was good. He said to try the pecan patties, which were so fresh they were still warm. The pecans were crunchy, the caramel was creamy and smooth, and the dark chocolate coating was of surprisingly high quality.

I asked him what else I should try. He said the pretzel rods covered with caramel and dark chocolate. It seemed like a ridiculous combination, but I loved it. Next up was a piece of dark chocolate bark with dried cranberries, kind of a homemade Nestle's Crunch bar and a coffee marshmallow. They were all terrific.

I paid for my chocolate, and waddled down the stairs. Next time, I vowed, I'll be strong enough to pass that chocolate sign by without stopping.

 VARSANO'S:
179 W. Fourth 
(between Sixth and Seventh Avenues.) 
(212) 352-1171

(reprinted with permission of the author, food critic, Ed Levine)